de bene esse: literally, of well-being, morally acceptable but subject to future validation or exception
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According to etiquette books of the past, it was pretty easy to be
offensive. To show you were of good breeding, you had to adhere to strict
parameters surrounding speech, behavior, dress, and eating. Some of those mores
were so detailed and odd that they are absolutely foreign to us now. At any
rate, by the standards of 100 years ago, you are an incredibly rude person.
1. At the table
Today, most women at a baby shower will leave the last piece of scrumptious
chocolate cream pie to wilt on the plate, instead of being the selfish soul to
"take the last piece." (It has been my experience that neither men
nor children suffer from this crippling politeness.) According to Dr.
Jefferis, however, writer of 1904's
Search Lights on Health, it
is rude
not to take the last piece. "Do not hesitate to
take the last piece on the dish, simply because it is the last. To do so is to
directly express the fear that you would exhaust the supply."
He provides further instruction on good table manners. For instance, should
you find a worm or insect in your food, say nothing of it. In fact, no
unpleasant talk at all. No matter what. "If an accident of any kind so
ever should occur during dinner, the cause being who or what it may, you should
not seem to note it… Should you be so unfortunate as to overturn or to break
anything, you should make no apology. You might let your regret appear in your
face, but it would not be proper to put it in words." The gravy boat is
spilled. Anoint your head in ashes, gnash your teeth, and rend your clothing.
Just be quiet about it or you'll make things
awkward.
2. In language
Mrs. Duffey, a 19th century expert on manners and feminist author of the
1877
The Ladies' and Gentlemen's Etiquette, warns her readers to
be careful in conversation. Don't ask impertinent questions. Which could
be
any question, since you have no idea what will offend
your companion. Better to avoid the problem altogether and never allow the lilt
of a question mark to stain your speech. If you want to know how your friend's
brother is, do not say, "How is your brother?" Say, "I hope your
brother is well." Passive-aggressive nosiness is far more acceptable than
brazen, well-intentioned curiosity.
Jefferis goes further, offering a list of language that is too ignorant to
be used in polite company.
"Don't say feller, winder, to-morrer, for fellow, window,
tomorrow." Here Jefferis clearly underestimates the charm of someone who
talks like Granny Clampett.
And his crowning piece of grammatical advice, "Don't say I say, says I,
but simply say I said." (Direct quote, hand to God.)
Some of his advice is still appropriate.
"Do not always commence a conversation by allusion to the
weather." Or asking about the kids. (They're kids. They run around being
useless, sticky, and just cute enough so that you'd feel bad if you didn't feed
them.) Or asking about the other person's work, which you know you're not really
interested in. Besides, you're not supposed to be asking questions anyway.
By process of elimination, the best way to initiate conversation would be by
declaring something impersonal, interesting, and educated. Greet a new person,
shake hands, and declare, "I am fond of potatoes, which the French call
'apples of the earth'." See where that takes you.
3. On the street
Men and women are expected to conduct themselves differently while walking
down the street. Men are not to lurk in doorways.
"A gentleman will not stand on the street corners or in hotel doorways,
or store windows and gaze impertinently at ladies as they pass by. This is the
exclusive business of loafers," says Jefferis.
Whereas it is a man's job to make himself visible, a woman is asked to do
the opposite. "Your conduct on the street should always be modest and
dignified. Ladies should carefully avoid all loud and boisterous conversation
or laughter, and all undue liveliness in public." To appear at all happy
or talkative would draw the attention of those impertinent loafers. Also, be
ever so careful how much ankle those creepers can get off you:
"In crossing the street a lady should gracefully raise her dress a
little above her ankle with one hand. To raise the dress with both hands is
vulgar, except in places where the mud is very deep."
As for offering to carry a lady's packages, according to Emily Post, writing
in the 1922 print of
Etiquette in Society, in Business, in Politics and at
Home, a real lady wouldn't be carrying "bundles" in the first
place. Asking a man to do so is to emasculate him in front of the entire town.
An exception is allowed for small, tidy square packages or anything that is
obviously nice, like flowers or fruit. Otherwise, should the woman ask for
help, "[She should not] wonder why her admirer never comes to see her
anymore!" It's an indisputable scientific fact that asking a man to carry
shopping left more women alone to die old maids than did the casualties of the
First and Second World Wars combined.
4. Specifically for ladies
There are two things a lady needs to know to survive in polite company. How
to sit, and how to please men. I know, that sounds medieval and ridiculous, but
if a lady doesn't sit properly how will you know she's a lady?
How to sit
Emily Post reminded women how their mothers were not allowed to cross their
knees, put hands on their hips, twist in a chair, or lean back. But by the
'20s, these things were allowed
, within reason.
No lady should cross her knees so that her skirts go up to or above them;
neither should her foot be thrust out so that her toes are at knee level. An
arm a-kimbo is
not a graceful attitude, nor is a twisted
spine! Everyone, of course, leans against a chair back… but a lady should never
throw herself almost at full length in a reclining chair or on a wide sofa when
she is out in public.
The proper way for a lady to sit is in the center of her chair, or slightly
sideways in the corner of a sofa. She may lean back, her hands relaxed in her
lap, her knees together, or if crossed, her foot must not be thrust forward so
as to leave a space between the heel and her other ankle. On informal occasions
she can lean back in an easy chair with her hands on the arms.
To clarify, you may use the chair's armrests. On informal occasions only.
Preferably in a locked room, alone.
How to please a man
One can always trust Dr. Jefferis to be plainspoken in even the most
ticklish of subjects.
No woman can afford to treat men rudely. She must remember that the art of
pleasing and entertaining gentlemen is infinitely more ornamental than laces,
ribbons, or diamonds…. and as women are more or less dependent upon man's
good-will, either for gain or pleasure, it surely stands to their interest to
be reasonably pleasant and courteous in his presence or society.
This sentiment, that women are dependent on man's good nature like a dog
upon its master's, may sting and enrage. But considering the time it was
written, what is even more stinging is the possible truth of it.
So you need to be careful exactly how you set about pleasing your man. For
women are like books. No, wait. They're like seed corn. No! Better! Ornamental
furniture!
For women are like books — too much gilding makes men suspicious, that the
binding is the most important part. The body is the shell of the soul, and the
dress is the husk of the body; but the husk generally tells what the kernel is.
As a fashionably dressed young lady passed some gentlemen, one of them raised
his hat, whereupon another, struck by the fine appearance of the lady, made
some inquiries concerning her, and was answered thus: "She makes a pretty
ornament in her father's house, but otherwise is of no use."
5. Gallantry for gentlemen
As is often the case in old advice manuals, instruction for men on how to
better themselves is scant. The little bit that Jefferis offers is especially
charming for how applicable it still is today.
Propriety is outraged when a man of sixty dresses like youth of sixteen. It
is bad manners for a gentleman to use perfumes to a noticeable extent. Avoid
affecting singularity in dress. Expensive clothes are no sign of a gentleman.
Friend, you're 46. Put away the board shorts. Take off the baseball cap or
at least put it on straight. Leave off the Axe body spray. And if you paid $200
for a pair of jeans that already have strategic holes ripped into them, well,
there is nothing any advice book can do for you.
One of the only other tricky elements a man must navigate is when it is
appropriate to give a lady his arm. It is a sexually potent act that leads many
a fine girl to ruin. Arm-offering is how our streets came to echo with the
plaintive cries of unwed mothers and their starving ill-gotten young.
Now, a gentleman may offer his arm to an old lady at any time. To a young
woman who is not his wife, there are very specific rules. It must be dark and
treacherous to warrant touching, say crossing a busy, icy road at night. He may
offer his arm if he is the usher at a wedding, but not if he is escorting a
woman at a ball, as that is no longer the fashion. A gentleman
never takes
a lady's arm, as that would make him a sissy boy.
It was refreshing to encounter one last piece of advice from Mrs. Duffey,
who politely shows her feminist colors regarding how a gentleman should treat a
lady.
If you are a gentleman, never lower the intellectual standard of your
conversation in addressing ladies. Pay them the compliment of seeming to
consider them capable of an equal understanding with gentlemen. You will, no
doubt, be somewhat surprised to find in how many cases the supposition will be
grounded on fact, and in the few instances where it is not. When you "come
down' to commonplace or small talk with an intelligent lady, one of two things
is the consequence: She either recognizes the condescension and despises you,
or else she accepts it as the highest intellectual effort of which you are
capable, and rates you accordingly.