de bene esse: Virginia’s Historic Triangle

de bene esse: literally, of well-being, morally acceptable but subject to future validation or exception

Compared to some European countries and Asia with histories traced to thousands and thousands of years, the history of the United States’ has not existed for millennia but it is no less interesting.

History of this part of America where the first colonies were settled and the foundations for the current nation were laid, Virginia’s “Historic Triangle“ is an ideal place to foray into American history. Here, a few square miles on the Virginia Peninsula are chock full of historic sites — from America’s first permanent English settlement to Virginia’s colonial capital.

Historic Jamestowne

If you’re headed to the Historic Triangle, the best first stop is Historic Jamestowne.'

Where it all began. In 1607, roughly 100 English men and boys chose this site as the first permanent settlement in the “New World.” James Fort was built here, which would eventually become Jamestown in 1619 and the capital of the Virginia Colony until 1699.

The site is run by the National Park Service, and boasts archaeological excavations of the original James Fort (including a brick church tower that is nearly 400 years old), statues of John Smith and Pocahontas, and a fascinating archaeological museum with artifacts that have been uncovered at the site.

The museum spans hundreds of years and includes the “Starving Time,” the period between 1609 and 1610 when only 61 of 500 settlers survived drought, harsh winters, and starvation. There is evidence (thanks to a partial skeleton nicknamed “Jane”) that the settlers even turned to cannibalism during this time…

Admission: $14 for adults.
Hours: Gates open at 8:30 a.m. and close at 4:30 p.m., but once admitted visitors can stay until dusk.
Food options: There’s a cafe between the James Fort site and the museum that serves affordable and tasty food cafeteria-style.

Jamestown Settlement

After learning about the real historical site of Jamestown, head over to Jamestown Settlement down the road.

There is a movie about Jamestown, an extensive museum (including an exhibit that tells the REAL story of Pocahontas and John Smith, and another that talks about early slavery in Virginia), a re-creation of a Powhatan Village like one Pocahontas would have lived in, replicas of the ships the original settlers arrived on, and a re-creation of James Fort.

The best part of these re-creations is you can explore all of them. Go into a Powhatan hut. Climb aboard the Susan Constant. And in the armory of James Fort you will learn that settlers used old medieval chain mail and armor because they were effective against the weapons of the native people.

Admission: $16 for adults
Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (6 p.m. during the summer)

Colonial Williamsburg

In 1699, the capital of Virginia was moved from Jamestown to Middle Plantation, which would soon be renamed Williamsburg. This colonial city was the center of everything in Virginia until 1780 (when the capital moved to Richmond), and was integral to life in the colony through the American Revolution.

Today, Williamsburg is Virginia’s top tourist destination, resembling the city as it would have been in the 1770s. It refers to itself as a “living history museum” and is filled with restored and rebuilt buildings (everything from the courthouse to taverns to the Governor’s Palace) and re-enactors who wander around the Revolutionary City and NEVER break character.

With a visitor’s pass you can go into just about every building in the “city,” and attend live “shows” in the streets, which include speeches and Q&A sessions with characters like George Washington and Benedict Arnold.

Admission: $41.95 for an adult single-day ticket (multi day tickets are only $49.95)
Hours: Williamsburg is “open” 365 days per year, though the tours, performances, etc. change throughout the week. Pick up a guide when you get there for exact times.
Food options: There are places to eat in the Revolutionary City (taverns), or you can walk a little ways to Merchants Square where there are tons of options. For an affordable lunch, grab a sandwich at the famous Cheese Shop.

Yorktown

The last point in the Historic Triangle is Yorktown — site of the battlefield where British General Cornwallis surrendered to George Washington in 1781 in essentially the last major battle of the American Revolution.

Yorktown Victory Monument

There are multiple sites here, including Yorktown Battlefield, Yorktown Victory Center, and the town of Yorktown itself. Yorktown Battlefield is operated by the National Park Service and offers a short video and small museum and then a self-guided driving tour of the battlefield sites. The Victory Center focuses more on living history, with a re-created Continental Army encampment and farm.
To be honest, I’m not a huge fan of battlefields. Yorktown was therefore my least favorite of the 3 “points,” but was still worth a visit for the historical factor.

Admission: $7 for the Battlefield, $9.75 for the Victory Center
Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (6 p.m. in summer) at the Victory Center

Make a Vacation of It

If you are interested in history as much as I am, consider hitting up all these places in one trip. You can get combo passes such as:

Jamestown Settlement and Yorktown Victory Center combo: $20.50 for adults
Historic Triangle ticket (5 sites, 7 days): $83.50 for adults

Although it is easiest by car — either a rental or your own (especially if you want to do the battlefield self-drive tour) — you do not HAVE to have one for this adventure. Assuming you can get yourself to Williamsburg, there is a free shuttle service operated by the USA National Park Service that runs along Colonial Parkway between Williamsburg, Jamestown, and Yorktown.

And as for places to stay? There are a hotels in Williamsburg, including a few that are more or less inside the Revolutionary Village.'