The word pannier
originally referred to a large basket used for transporting goods, but
it took on a new sense during the 1700s when women of the European upper
class took to distending their skirts in order to show off luxurious
textiles. Pannier then referred to an oval framework made of
whalebone or cane worn under the skirt to achieve this mile-wide
silhouette. The trend was taken to an extreme by Marie Antoinette: had
she needed to use her panniers to transport goods, she would have had
ample cargo space.
In the
mid-to-late 1800s, a new silhouette, the S-curve, began to gain
popularity among European ladies of leisure. Still prizing the dramatic
hourglass figure of a corseted waist and fullness at the hips, women
began padding the backs of their skirts rather than the sides,
incorporating a bustle. The history of this sense of the word is
uncertain, but it might have evolved out of an earlier sense of the
term, "rustling motion."
The opulent fashions of the Edwardian era were topped off by wide-brimmed, elaborately decorated hats known as Merry Widows.
These lavish lids were named after the 1905 operetta of the same name
by Hungarian composer Franz Lehar. The term can also refer to a
strapless brassiere and short corset with attached garters.
A jabot is
that decorative burst of lace or ruffles around the neck that makes an
otherwise drab judge's robe or pirate's ensemble pop. The fashion
appeared in the Baroque period and was adopted by men and women alike.
Jabots have declined in popularity, but the flourish is still favored by
some judicial bodies, including UN's International Court of Justice.
If you're looking to add a touch of stately drama to your wardrobe, but you don't want to compromise comfort, a houppelande might be just the thing. A long robe or tunic with billowing sleeves and often trimmed or lined with fur, the houppelande
was the garment of choice among both men and women in the late Middle
Ages. These gowns are the fashion ancestors of the modern-day academic
and legal robes.
A wimple
is a garment covering the neck and chin worn by women throughout
medieval Europe as a sign of modesty. It was often worn with a veil and
circlet, or ring-shaped head ornament. Western women are thought to have
adopted the style after the Crusades introduced the veiled stylings of
Muslim women. Some nuns still wear them today.
One perk of being a European noblewoman in the Middle Ages was that you got to wear a pointy hat known as a hennin,
sometimes also referred to as the steeple headdress. These conical or
heart-shaped embellishments, which were often worn with a flowing veil,
typically ranged from 12 to 18 inches high, but sometimes reached 36
inches.
Few garments are named as appropriately as the hobble skirt,
a long skirt that emerged toward the end of the Edwardian era that was
so narrow at the bottom, the wearer had to walk with short, mincing
steps. The designer of this mobility-restricting marvel is said to have
been inspired by watching Mrs. Hart O. Berg, the first American woman to
fly as a passenger in an airplane, walk away from an aircraft with her
skirt tied at her ankles to prevent it from blowing in the wind.
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